Puglia is a southern region of Italy near the “boot.” It is off the beaten path compared to the northern areas in Italy and has it’s own unique history and charm. It’s known for it’s whitewashed villages, century-old farmland, sprawling olive groves, adorable masserias, and the beautiful turquoise water of it’s Mediterranean coastline. We rented a car and spent 2 weeks exploring a ton of Puglia’s different villages and sea-side towns taking in every moment. Here is a breakdown of each place we visited and some of our favorite things we did there. At the bottom is a day by day itinerary to help you plan your own roadtrip through Puglia.
Bari
We started our Puglian roadtrip in the region’s capital city of Bari. There is an international airport here and so we were able to fly right into the city and rent a car here. We spent 2 nights here exploring the maze-like narrow streets of the old town, getting rid of our jet lag, sipping Aperol Spritzes, and taking it all in.
Old Town
Bari’s old town, called Bari Vecchia, was one of our favorite old towns in Puglia. Even though Bari is one of the largest cities in Puglia it still has a appealing small town charm. We spent the afternoon wandering the old town without a map or a care in the world except finding a cute wine bar to sit and enjoy a glass of Primitivo wine which is produced in this region.
Pasta Granny Street
Hidden in the streets of Bari’s old town is a small alley called Arco Basso where dozens of Italian grandmothers make fresh pasta everyday by hand. They have been doing this for decades, passing down this tradition through generations. This was one of our favorite parts of Bari. We loved talking with the grannies and watching them make the fresh orecchiette by hand. They easily convinced us to buy a couple bags of their dried pasta to take home as gifts for our families.
Local Cuisine
Our first night in Bari we had the most delicious pizza from Bari Napoli Pizzeria! We ordered the Pistachio Pizza which was a thin Nepalese style pizza with burrata, speck, and pistachios. It was incredible! One of the local delicacies that is very popular and famous in Puglia is burrata cheese. Burrata is a ball of soft cheese with a slightly thicker outer shell. In Angela’s opinion burrata is one of the creamiest and tastiest cheeses in the world. We ordered a ton of meat and cheese plates on this trip and ate a ton of burrata.
Masseria Montenapoleone
Our second stop in Puglia was at one of the area’s beautiful masserias. The term “Masseria” is the Italian word for a country house or estate usually on a farm. These masserias date back to the 16th century but today many masserias have been converted into adorable bed and breakfasts. They are an essential part of the area’s culture and during your visit to Puglia we suggest staying in at least one. It’s wonderful way to incorporating some rich Italian history of the region into your trip.
There are so many beautiful masserias in Puglia that it can be hard to choose where to stay but we definitely feel like we made the right decision by staying at Masseria Montenapoleone. Surrounded by century old olive groves and vineyards, this farmstead has hidden gardens and beautiful art around every corner. We loved all the antiques and colorful decorations that adorned the property which made our stay feel warm and homey. The pool is stunning and the restaurant on-site makes the most delcious food with local ingredients.
Vineyard Experience
There is so much to do at Masseria Montenapoleone. They have cooking classes, a spa for wellness treatments, tours of the farm, olive oil tastings and more. We booked their vineyard experience so we could taste some of their local wine and food and had a great time. The setting was unbelievable with a private picnic table set up literally in the vineyard just for us. It was romantic and we can definitely recommend this fun experience during your stay.
Masseria Salamina
Our second night staying at Masseria Montenapoleone we decided to take a short drive to another masseria for dinner. We made a reservation at Masseria Salamina and had a wonderful dinner at their restaurant. Masseria Salamina is a 17th century castle and farmhouse. The restaurant’s dining room is where the Masseria’s oil mill was once located and the food is traditional Italian from the region with dishes that incorporate ingredients produced by the family run farm. Masseria Salamina is stunning and we loved that we were able to experience it for the evening even though we weren’t staying there.
Monopoli
On our way to our next destination we stopped at the small fishing village of Monopoli for the day. We walked around the whitewashed old town until we wandered into the Porto Antico . This beautiful old port was filled with colorful blue boats and crumbling buildings. It looked like a movie set. We got lost in the streets taking photos around every picturesque corner and stopped for an Aperol Spritz in an sunny outdoor cafe in the Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi.
We had one of the best bites of food of our entire trip in Monopoli at Gustavo’s Salumeria! The delicious sandwiches at Gustavo’s are made on freshly baked foccacia, and contain local meats and cheeses. They all looked insanely good and it was hard to choose which one to order. We finally picked a sandwich with Parma ham aged 24 months, fresh mozzarella, truffle oil and rocket. It was to die for!
Polignano a Mare
The gem of Puglia, Polignano a Mare is unlike anywhere in the world! The old town is perched atop a 20 meter high limestone cliff that sits above the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic Sea. Its an architectural feat and a beauty to behold. Polignano a Mare is an essential stop for any trip to Puglia and is usually the highlight of the trip.
Take in the view of the beautiful pebble beach of Poligano a Mare as you pass under the the Lama Monachile Bridge.
Swim at the beach
The most picturesque beach you may ever see is Cala Porto (also known as Lama Monachile) which is the most iconic beach in all of Puglia. This beach sits between the limestone cliffs with the city buildings towering above. The beach is made of white pebbles and the water is turquoise and crystal clear. We spent a day lounging on the sunny beach in between dips in the ocean.
Explore the Old Town
Centro Storico or the old town of Polignano a Mare is stunning. With cobbled marble streets and white painted buildings the alleyways are brought to life with greenery and colourful shutters and doors. Walk to the viewpoint of Terraza Santo Stefano to spot the iconic seascape of Polignano a Mare’s beach, Lama Monachile, below. Another great view of the city is from Scogliera del Lungomare Modugno which is across the bridge.
Drink a Caffe Speciale from Il Super Mago del Gelo
One of the best things we discovered on this entire trip was the caffe speciale (special coffee) from this little coffee shop in Polignano a Mare. Their special coffee is a unique concoction of lemon, liqueur and espresso. We had like 8 of these little coffee drinks during our stay. They were unlike anything we’ve ever tasted and we are still dreaming of these delicious caffeinated delights.
Eat handmade orecchiette at Osteria Piga
The best restaurant we ate at in Polignano a Mare was Osteria Piga. Across the bridge on the other side of town this tiny restaurant serves rustic local dishes like homemade orecchiette with beef ragu which was bursting with flavor. Orecchiette is the most popular type of pasta in Puglia and this was the best version we tasted They also have delicious cuts of local meat prepared to perfection.
Aperol Spritz at the Fly Bar
For a drink with a view head to the Fly Bar which is right behind the famous Lama Monachile beach. To fit in with the Europeans order an Aperol Spritz and realx in the sun.
Taste the grilled meat from Braceria dello Sport
This grill house was one of our favorite discoveries in Polignano a Mare. This casual spot is a great place for a beer and a bite. The staff was so friendly and the food here was exceptional. You simply head inside to the counter and point out what meat you would like to try to and the friendly Italian butcher will grill it up for you. We loved the pancetta fritta (fried pork belly), & bombettas (meat balls stuffed with cheese.)
Don’t get the Octopus Sandwich from Pescaria
This may be an unpopular opinion but one of the biggest food fails we had in Puglia was this octopus sandwich from Pescaria. It’s super famous and people line up outside this restaurant all day to order one. We arrived before they opened and were some of the first people in. The service was terrible and it took forever to get our food. No wonder there is constantly a line. When we finally received our sandwich it was extremely underwhelming. The sauteed broccoli and slimy brown sauce underneath were such weird flavors, you couldn’t even taste the octopus. Moral of the story, don’t waste your precious time in Polignano a Mare getting this octopus sandwich.
Polignano a Mare is definitely a bucket-list destination that lives up to the hype. A must-visit stop on any Puglia roadtrip.
Alberobello
After leaving Polignano a Mare we decided to drive to Alberobello for a day of exploring before checking into our next masseria. Alberobello is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is famous for it’s unique trulli houses which aree whitewashed stone huts that have conical roofs and have been around for centuries. Trullis were originally constructed as field shelters and agriculture storage houses but some were also small dwellings. This little town has the biggest collection of trulli’s in Italy and it’s a lot of fun wandering the alleyways between these unique buildings, some of which have been converted into shops and homestays.
Masseria Moroseta
The second masseria we stayed at on our trip was Masseria Moroseta. It is near the town of Ostuni and sits on five hectares of centuries-old olive groves that overlook the Adriatic Sea. The design is more sleek and modern than most traditional masserias and the clean white aesthetic gives you a feeling of tranquility and simplicity.
The swimming pool overlooks the sprawling olive grove and we spent a day lounging next to it in the sun. The main building of the masseria has a couch with a fireplace which is great for lounging and reading a book. The courtyard and grounds have cactus and local foliage that add pops of color to the blinding white buildings.
The restaurant on site serves up a wonderful breakfast each morning for it’s guests. And a couple nights a week they do a coursed dinner. There is a garden on the property and the food incorporates vegtables and herbs that are grown there. So if you aren’t staying at Masseria Moroseta you can still come for dinner to check out this beautiful property.
Ostuni
The “White City” of Ostuni sits perched on top of a hill and is known for it’s white painted old town which forms a maze of cobbled streets and narrow staircases. Ostuni has long been an awe-inspiring sight for those traveling across Puglia. When you arrive you are rewarded with the stunning view of the city in the distance with a tumble of white buildings on top of the hill. It is one of the most beautiful cities in Puglia.
Old Town
Grab your camera and enjoy meandering through the alleyways of Ostuni’s old town.
Osteria del Tempo Perso
One of the best restaurants in Ostuni is Osteria del Tempo Perso. This charming little restaurant is in the heart of Ostuni and the interior of the restauarnt is carved out of rock. It’s a romantic little spot and the white truffle pasta we ate here was one of the best pasta dishes we had the whole trip! Definitely recommend getting a reservation here.
Locorotondo
On our last day in Ostuni we hopped in the car and drove to another cute whitewashed hillside town to explore for the day. Locorotondo’s old town is similar to the others in Puglia with tiny twisting alleyways, white building with colorful doorways and greenery adding that pop of color! We loved spending the day here walking around with our camera taking photos. We stopped at a little outdoor cafe for an espresso and a croissant.
Matera
The last stop on our Puglia roadtrip was the ancient city of Matera. It was a 2 hour 40 minute drive from Ostuni and we arrived there in the early afternoon. There is no where in the world like Matera. It is mind blowing and one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever seen. This ancient city is 9,000 years old, making it one of the oldest continually inhabited settlements in the world. The inhabitants lived in complex cave dwellings carved into the canyons. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site the caves are filled with restaurants, bars, hotels, and souvenir shops.
Make sure to bring good walking shoes because the best way to see Matera is on foot and there are tons of stairs. We literally got lost multiple times trying to find specific places. This city is a real life maze. The best thing to do is put the map away and just wander.
When the sun goes down,the sunset over the city is unreal. Head to Piazzetta Pascoli for a beautiful view of the city. It was magical to watch the lights of the city slowly flicker on as the sky darkened. Some other great viewpoints are from the church plaza in front of Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio) and from Belvedere di Piazza Giovanni Pascoli.
We stayed at the lovely Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita which was one of the most unique hotels we’ve ever stayed at. The hotel is composed of cave rooms which have been carved into the mountainside. The hotel has 18 rooms all of which are unique historical caves which used to be lived in. Each room is lit by candlelight and you feel like you are living back in time while staying here. The main area of the hotel is an ancient church, the “Cripta della Civita”, which is now used as a common area and where breakfast is served. We cannot recommend this hotel enough!
Matera was the highlight of our trip and really ended our Puglia roadtrip with a bang! When it was sadly time to leave we drove 45 minutes back to Bari to drop off our car and fly back home. We hope to come back and visit again one day!
Day by Day 2 Week Itinerary
Day 1 - (Bari) - Fly into Bari. Pick up Car and have dinner.
Day 2 - (Bari) - Explore Bari. Make sure to check out the Pasta Granny Street.
Day 3 - (Masseria) - Check into Masseria Montenapoleone and have dinner there.
Day 4 - (Masseria) - Relax at Masseria Montenapoleone. Book their vineyard experience for lunch apertivos. Dinner at Masseria Salamina. Stay back at Masseria Montenapoleone.
Day 5 - (Polignano a Mare) - Explore Monopoli. Lunch at Gustavo’s. Check into Polignano a Mare hotel.
Day 6 - (Polignano a Mare) - Explore Polignano a Mare and swim at the beach. Go to Il Super Mago del Gelo for a caffe speciale. Bar hop and have dinner.
Day 7 - (Masseria) - Drive to Alberobello and explore for the day. Head to Masseria Moroseta to check in and have dinner at their restaurant.
Day 8 - (Masseria) - Relax at Masseria Moroseta’s pool. Go to Cisternino or Ostuni for dinner.
Day 9 - (Ostuni) Explore Ostuni for the day and check into Ostuni hotel. Dinner at Osteria del Tempo Perso.
Day 10 - (Ostuni) - Drive to Locorotondo and explore for the day. Back to Ostuni for dinner and to stay the night.
Day 11 - (Matera) - 2 hours & 40 min drive to Matera. Check into hotel enjoy the evening in Matera.
Day 12 - (Matera) - Explore Matera all day and night.
Day 13 - Drive 45 min to Bari airport and fly home.
